• Follow the backwashing instructions in your Owner's Manual. The sand bed may be clogged with mineral deposits that will not backwash away. Some calcium based chlorines and other alternative sanitizers will build up in your sand bed, and will require more frequent backwashing and changing of the sand.
• Before you replace all the sand in your filter, try removing approximately 1" of the top layer of the sand, replace with the exact amount of sand you removed. Normal life span of the sand is about 4 - 5 years.
• You may have to clean your filter system with a special filter cleaner, check with your pool dealer for proper procedures.
• Check to see if there is a closed or partially closed valve along your return piping, open the valve.
• Your pump may be too small to provide sufficient flow for proper backwashing. Your filter will function, but a lower design flow rate will cause your system to backwash improperly. Check the output of the pump to be sure that it equals your filter's design flow rate. Replace the pump if it is too small.

 

 

• Improper backwashing could be the reason. Always backwash until the water runs clear in the valve's sight glass, usually about two minutes.
• You may have live algae causing the filter to clog. By testing the water balance with a test kit and super chlorinating, you should solve this problem.

NOTE: Some test kits may provide inaccurate results, we suggest taking a water sample to your pool dealer for evaluation. Be sure to take a water sample before shocking the pool.

 

• The sand you are using could be too small, which will go through the filter system, then back into the pool. Remove the sand and replace it with the proper grade of sand - #20 Silica or 45-55mm pool sand, which can be found at your local pool dealer.
• Your pump may be too big for your filter. During backwashing the pressure can cause the sand to rise high enough to overflow into the standpipe, allowing sand to flow back into the pool. Refer to your Owner's Manual for the correct amount of sand for your filter (Owner's Manuals are available online under the product page for your filter).
• There could be a loose lateral located at the bottom of your filter. Tighten any loose laterals, replace if broken.
• Most calcium based chlorine, both powder or tablets, contain from 30 - 35% of what is called inert materials. This is calcium residue or dust, which many pool owners mistake for sand. You can confirm this by following these steps: During vacuuming, use a hand vac and pole. As the vac head approaches, , the sand will lay on the bottom, and will allow itself to be picked up. Most calcium residue will scatter away from the vac head as you try to pick it up.
• If you have this problem, we recommend that you put extra water in your pool and vacuum to the waste line. If you vacuum to the filter, some of it will be trapped on the sand surface, allowing dust to get back into your pool.

• The filter elements may be clogged because of an accumulation of chemical deposits. Clogging is accelerated if chemicals are fed through the skimmer, operating your filter too long without DE after starting the pump, or operating the filter without DE. DE must be added as soon as the filter is full of water, and the pump is putting out a steady stream of water. Refer to your Owner's Guide for the amount of DE your filter requires.
• Biguanide based sanitizers (i.e. Baquacil, SoftSwim) can cause short cycling.

 

• Be sure that the suspected material on the pool floor is actually DE. Pollen, chemical residue and plaster dust often look like DE.
• You may have a tear in your filter elements, replace if necessary. Make sure that you assemble the internal parts properly!
• Check for air leaks, as this will cause the system to leak DE back into the pool. If there are air leaks, install a check valve between the pump and the filter valve.

 

This is normal if the pool contains very dirty water. Backwash or regenerate and recharge more often. If there is a presence of live algae, add enough chlorine sanitizer to control this growth, then vacuum. The presence of alum or floccing agents will clog the filter. Vacuum so as to bypass the filter. Do not use floccing agents with DE filters.

 

No, you must thoroughly clean the elements at least once a year. You can clean your filter elements using automatic dishwasher detergent. Remove the elements from the filter, according to the instructions in your Owner's Guide, and hose them off with a forceful stream of water from your garden hose. Fill a large plastic container with the detergent, using about a 1/2 cup and warm water. Soak the elements for approximately 3 - 4 hours. After soaking, rinse off the elements again. Re-assemble your filter according to the instructions in your Owner's Guide. Note:do not soak elements in muriatic if the pool uses Biguanide products. This will damage the filter.

You may choose to clean the elements with muriatic acid or other commercial filter element cleaners, mix according to the package instructions. Use extreme caution when handling any cleaning agents, as they can be harmful to the eyes, skin and clothing. After cleaning, thoroughly rinse all elements with cold water.

 

Whenever you backwash your DE filter allowing the dirt and DE out the waste line or when you regenerate and drain your Perflex or ReGenX filter.

 

• Your pool chemistry may be out of balance, allowing algae to multiply.
• The flow rate through the filter may be low due to clogged or undersized piping. Cleaning the lines or changing to larger pipes will correct this problem.
• Your filter operation time may not be long enough to compensate for heavy use or hot weather. Try running your filter for 24 hours to clear the water, then adjust to less running time.
• Your pump may be hooked up to the wrong port on the multiport valve. If incorrectly installed, the filter will be flowing in reverse. Be sure the pump is connected to the port marked "pump" on the valve.
• You could be backwashing too often. Backwash only when the pressure rises 7 - 10 psi over the starting pressure, or when the return flow back into the pool becomes low.

 

An oversized pump may cause noise in your filter valve due to excessive flow. To test, hold your hand partially in front of any returns at the pool wall. If the noise subsides, this will confirm that the problem is excessive flow. It can be remedied by by installing smaller eyeball fittings in the return(s), changing the pump impeller size in the pump, or change to a 2-inch control valve.

 

The valve seat gasket inside the valve has become worn or loose. You may choose to do this yourself or contact your local pool dealer for service. How do you replace the gasket? You will need a new gasket, obtained from your local dealer, some Krazy Glue, and a sharp 1/8-inch wide flat bladed screwdriver. NOTE: Mark the top and bottom of the valve with a marking pen. It's very important that you do not change the location of the cover when re-assembling. Remove the cover, usually six screws. Using the screwdriver, scrape out every last part of the gasket and cement, in order to get back to a clean flat surface. Put a fair amount of crazy glue on the flat side of the gasket. Place the gasket, flat side down, back into place - let dry for one hour minimum.

 

 

Cleaners depend on several factors to make them operate. There must be enough water flow past the turbine. Use a vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" vacuum per section of hose.

Second, the four small "shoes" must be able to grip the pool surface. Make sure that the "shoes" are not worn out and that the surface of the pool is not slippery because of a buildup of algae. Note:some algae is clear, be sure to feel the underwater pool surface.

Third, the shoes and "pods" must be working correctly. Any wear in the "drive train" can cause problems. To check for wear, hold the left and right "pods" in your hands and firmly, try to rock the pods. All force on the pods should be transferred to the turbine and no "play" should be evident.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. All the time, the "pods" should be kicking. If you can reach under the cleaner and stop the pods with your hand, there is either excessive wear on the internal parts or inadequate suction. Remember to check the vacuum reading before calling your dealer for assistance.

 

 

Cleaner hoses cannot be coiled up for storage. If you have coiled them, take the sections apart, lay them straight, and leave them outside for an entire day and night. Once the curls are removed, the hose should be usable.

 

Depending on the angle of the pool floor to the pool walls, the cleaner may not be able to "climb" the "slope." Picture the cleaner on the pool bottom at the intersection of where the pool wall meets the bottom at a sharp angle, (like the walls in your house.) The cleaner will not be able to make the transition, don't worry, it's not supposed to. After all, the dirt is on the bottom.

The hose might be too short.

1. Check to see that the hose extends two full sections past the furthest point in the pool.
2. Check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner's movement.
3. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch of vacuum per section of hose.
4. Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
5. Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. All the time, the "pods" should be kicking. If the cleaner is not doing the "test" movements, call or take your cleaner to your local dealer.

 

 

1. Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
2. Check for obstructions in the cleaner.
3. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. It should be 1 inch vacuum per section of hose. If the cleaner still moves slowly, call or take it to your local dealer.

 

The cleaner is sticking at the steps or against a wall. See cleaner sticking at the steps?

 

1. The vacuum is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch vacuum per section of hose.
2. Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.
3. Check the shoes, wings, and flaps for wear.
4. As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. If the cleaner is not turning, call or take your cleaner to your local pool dealer.

 

The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn shoes.

 

You will not be able to turn the cleaner top when the cleaner is full of water. Drain the water from the cleaner head, and try to rotate the top both left and right - there might be some debris in the gears. If the top does not turn, call or take the cleaner to your local pool dealer.

 

There is a leak on the suction side of your filter system that only shows up when you stress the system. i.e. - install your manual vacuum cleaner or an automatic vacuum cleaner. Check for obvious leaks at the pump housing, check the lid and o-ring. If the air persists, contact your local pool dealer.

 

There is excess wear on the bottom of the cleaner, and the wing hooks have probably broken off the pods. The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn components.