Most pumps are self-priming centrifugal pumps. These pumps must have a vacuum chamber, commonly known as a pump housing. The pump housing must be filled with water in order for any pump to create a vacuum, resulting in your pump pulling the water out of your pool or spa. The pump housing will remain full of water while the pump is on, and will remain full or partially full of water when the pump is shut off.

When you turn on the pump the motor will begin to rotate on high speed (dual speed pumps rotate at the preselected speed). The motor drives the pump impeller, located inside the pumps center portion at the opposite end, away from the electrical switch portion of the motor. While the motor is rotating, the tips of the impeller are sealed hydraulically inside of the pump diffuser, this allows self-priming to occur.

Self-priming can only occurr when the pump has a diffuser. Some pumps have a separate diffuser, others have the diffuser molded into the pump's cover, refer to your Owner's Manual for your pump. The diffuser helps to eliminate any air coming into the pump housing, suction piping, or hoses on above ground pools. When all the air is being removed from the system, you will notice the bubbles returning to the pool through the return fittings. The impeller acts to convert water velocity into water pressure, which is registered on your filter pressure gauge. The actual Gallons Per Minute (GPM) varies with the type of pump and the horsepower. Check your Owner's Manual for more information (owner's manuals can be found online under the detailed page of your pump).

Self-priming pumps are very dependable and simple in design. They require a sufficient supply of water from the pool or spa, and no air in the suction lines. Air could come from a loose strainer cover, a leak in any valve, a pin hole in any suction line or any crack or loose connections in the underground piping. Your pump should be kept free of dirt and also located where it can be protected from flooding during heavy rain fall. If your pump motor becomes flooded you will probably have to replace it (pump motors damaged by flooding are not covered by warranty).

Check the power, breakers, switches, etc. If you have a timer on the system, make sure it is working properly.

This may be caused by insufficient power due to an undersized or long power wires. All wires should be according to code requirements and the motor manufacturer's recommendations.

 

Your local power supply may be suffering a power drop. For example: during a heat wave when every possible cooling appliance has been turned on in your area, your pump may be starved of the power it requires to run cool. Restart your pump when the weather cools to confirm that the problem is in the motor.

Your pump has a thermal overload, which will shut the motor off when it gets too hot, and it will restart itself once it has cooled down.

This may be normal since they produce water flow. The motor has a cooling fan internally which can be heard to a certain degree. It is advisable not to locate any pool pump under someone's bedroom window. The pump's sounds can be caused by vibrations between the pump base and the base or concrete pad it is sitting on. A piece of old carpet or rubber between the pump and base may quiet the sound.

 

The bearings may be noisy due to normal wear. Feeding high concentrations of chemical tablets in the skimmer will cause corrosive damage to the pump seal, which can leak and damage the motor bearings. It is recommended to get the bearings replaced by a qualified motor repair shop. Also, cavitation due to improper suction line sizing, leaks in the piping, a blockage in the suction line, or a low level of pool water will cause higher than normal sound.

Your motor is wired to the wrong voltage. Most inground pumps can be connected to either 115 or 230v. Shut off the pump at once and have your electrician check the problem and correct.

The strainer cover is loose or the gasket is damaged; check and replace the cover or gasket if necessary.

• The pool water level may be too low allowing air to mix with water through the skimmer, you will need to raise the water level.
• The skimmer weir, sometimes called the flapper, may be stuck in the up position, allowing air to mix with water in the suction line.
• There can be a leak at any connection in the suction piping or a leak inside any suction side valve at the stem o-ring.
• Also, there may be a leak in the underground piping, caused by a loose joint, or termites/ants that will chew into some flexible piping.

many pool owners use this term when in fact they really mean they have lots of pressure but their flow is very low. This is caused by a dirty or clogged filter, a blocked return line, or a valve that is shut off or partially shut on the return piping.

 

The pump's impeller may be clogged with debris. Check by first shutting off the pump. Remove the basket and check the impeller by putting your finger into the suction hole found in the pump strainer housing. If the seal is broken, replace it. For seal change instructions on Hayward pumps, refer to your Owner's Manual that is supplied with your pump (also available online under the product page for your pump), or contact your local pool dealer.

 

Swimming pool pumps do require energy, the bigger the pump the more energy consumed. Also, some filtration systems may require up to 24-hours to clean your pool. Most pools should stay clean with 8 - 12 hours of filtering. An upgrade to an energy efficient pump and improved filtration can cut energy consumption 15 percent or more. See your Hayward Pool Professional for details.

Check for each of the folowing:

• You may have a suction leak if there is not enough water in the strainer housing.
• You can have a leak at any joint especially at the first fitting that is screwed into the strainer housing.
• The strainer cover may be loose or an o-ring under the strainer housing cover may be worn.
• You may have clogged suction piping, which is caused by items that get sucked through the skimmer into the piping, usually lodging at any turn in the piping.
• Sometimes when the pump starts, a small stone or debris by-passes the pump basket it will break the impeller.
• The pump may be located above the pool water level or may be too far from the pool, requiring longer periods to prime. The ideal situation is to locate the pump at or just slightly above water level, 8 feet maximum, and as close to the pool as possible, approximately 10 - 20 feet maximum.

 

Cleaners depend on several factors to make them operate. There must be enough water flow past the turbine. Use a vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" vacuum per section of hose.

Second, the four small "shoes" must be able to grip the pool surface. Make sure that the "shoes" are not worn out and that the surface of the pool is not slippery because of a buildup of algae. Note:some algae is clear, be sure to feel the underwater pool surface.

Third, the shoes and "pods" must be working correctly. Any wear in the "drive train" can cause problems. To check for wear, hold the left and right "pods" in your hands and firmly, try to rock the pods. All force on the pods should be transferred to the turbine and no "play" should be evident.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. All the time, the "pods" should be kicking. If you can reach under the cleaner and stop the pods with your hand, there is either excessive wear on the internal parts or inadequate suction. Remember to check the vacuum reading before calling your dealer for assistance.

 

 

Cleaner hoses cannot be coiled up for storage. If you have coiled them, take the sections apart, lay them straight, and leave them outside for an entire day and night. Once the curls are removed, the hose should be usable.

 

Depending on the angle of the pool floor to the pool walls, the cleaner may not be able to "climb" the "slope." Picture the cleaner on the pool bottom at the intersection of where the pool wall meets the bottom at a sharp angle, (like the walls in your house.) The cleaner will not be able to make the transition, don't worry, it's not supposed to. After all, the dirt is on the bottom.

The hose might be too short.

1. Check to see that the hose extends two full sections past the furthest point in the pool.
2. Check to see that the return line(s) are not affecting the cleaner's movement.
3. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch of vacuum per section of hose.
4. Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
5. Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.

As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. All the time, the "pods" should be kicking. If the cleaner is not doing the "test" movements, call or take your cleaner to your local dealer.

 

 

1. Check the shoes, wings and flaps for wear.
2. Check for obstructions in the cleaner.
3. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. It should be 1 inch vacuum per section of hose. If the cleaner still moves slowly, call or take it to your local dealer.

 

The cleaner is sticking at the steps or against a wall. See cleaner sticking at the steps?

 

1. The vacuum is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1 inch vacuum per section of hose.
2. Check the rear flap adjuster, and move it to the I position.
3. Check the shoes, wings, and flaps for wear.
4. As a test, hold the cleaner by the hose. Keep the cleaner below water with the pump running. Hold the cleaner off the bottom of the pool and observe, the cleaner should: rotate right - not rotate - rotate left - not rotate - rotate right - etc. If the cleaner is not turning, call or take your cleaner to your local pool dealer.

 

The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn shoes.

 

You will not be able to turn the cleaner top when the cleaner is full of water. Drain the water from the cleaner head, and try to rotate the top both left and right - there might be some debris in the gears. If the top does not turn, call or take the cleaner to your local pool dealer.

 

There is a leak on the suction side of your filter system that only shows up when you stress the system. i.e. - install your manual vacuum cleaner or an automatic vacuum cleaner. Check for obvious leaks at the pump housing, check the lid and o-ring. If the air persists, contact your local pool dealer.

 

There is excess wear on the bottom of the cleaner, and the wing hooks have probably broken off the pods. The shoes are worn, and the vacuum in the cleaner hose is probably too high. Use the vacuum gauge to measure the vacuum in the cleaner hose. You should have 1" of vacuum per section of hose. Replace worn components.